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by Gary Michael Smith
The surfing bug had bitten me pretty hard in 1967. I had seen Endless Summer at the Vienna Movie Theater in Fairfax, Virginia. The simple plot of the movie is two surfers, Michael Hynson and Robert August, traveling the globe looking for the perfect wave. No other movie had ever more clearly defined for me a lifestyle and a reason for living. I wanted to be just like Michael Hynson and Robert August Ð fly around the world, surf, eat, chase girls and sleep. But, hey, what did I know? I was only 15. I had the vision, but it was time to start living the dream.
My first chance came later on that summer when my family was heading down to the beach for our annual July vacation in Ocean City, Maryland. I wanted to go surfing, so my Dad found a surf shop that would rent a board. Off into the ocean I went, without the slightest idea of what I was doing. But that didn't stop me! Day after day, I headed out, paddled into set waves and nose-dived (pearled) every time. I was frustrated, felt helpless and a little embarrassed. But what made matters worse was the peanut gallery on the beach, consisting of friends and family who were making well-intentioned but uninformed suggestions on how I could catch my first ride on a wave. Finally on the last day of summer vacation, the surf gods smiled on me. Late in the afternoon, by sheer luck (of course, no help from the peanut gallery), I caught one wave, stood up and rode it into the beach. I was starting to live my dream.
That I needed and what they didn't have back in 1967 was a surf school. That experience 39 years ago has shaped my mindset about teaching surfing today. Learning how to surf requires learning the three components of the sport. First is learning about the ocean, and that Mother Nature is the "X" factor. Winds, tides, ocean currents and weather patterns all contribute to create swell. The second component is to know the equipment. There are numerous surfboard shapes, sizes and materials available to today's surfer. (A lot more options than I had in 1967.) Matching the right board to the right surfer can make all the difference in the world. Last but not least is grasping the four rudiments of surfing: 1) paddling, 2) catching a wave, 3) standing up and 4) riding. Paddling is one part of the sport that usually gives people a lot of trouble. It takes a fair amount of strength and endurance to get the board moving at the same speed as the wave. All that strength comes from the upper torso and arms. Probably the best pre-training you can do is lap swimming and some weight lifting. My students are always surprised how tired their arms feel after a surf lesson, so getting that upper body in shape can really make a difference. Catching the wave is dependent upon correct paddling and good wave selection. Selecting the right wave is an acquired skill. The more you surf the better you can identify which wave is ride-able, where to position yourself and when to start paddling. If you try catching a wave too early, you might not catch the wave at all. Try to catch a wave too late, and you will nose dive and get pummeled in the white water (just like I did in 1967). Standing up is the layman's term for popping up. Popping up is a great way of describing going from a prone position to standing on your feet. This step is only started once the board is moving. Timing is everything. Try getting up too soon, and the board stalls. Try getting up too late and you might miss the ride. Riding the wave is the fun part! If you've gotten this far, you're on the right road (the right wave). The first couple of surf sessions will probably involve catching rides that will take you straight into the beach. But the main goal in surfing waves is to learn how to go down the line. Going down the line means surfing parallel to the beach, not perpendicular.
This is just a brief summary of learning how to surf. If you really want to learn the sport, my recommendation is to take a surf lesson with an established school. There are a number of surf schools on the Outer Banks. Some schools are good; some schools are not so good! A good surf program is insured and bonded. A surf program cannot be insured unless they meet certain standards. So don't be afraid to ask the surf shop you are calling if their program is insured. A good surf school should replace their lesson boards once a year and use soft boards. All the instructors should be CPR trained, with additional First Responder training. The Outer Banks is a great place to learn how to surf. There are numerous good beginner spots that offer surf that is consistently 1 to 2 feet, a sandy bottom without obstructions, and little to no crowds. My final recommendation: Find a good surf school and ignore the peanut gallery.
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