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By Lee Schindel
Feel like eating out tonight? After spending the morning sunning yourself on the beach, shopping a bit in the afternoon and heading back for a dip in the ocean before dinner, who has the energy to cook? You’re in luck, because the Outer Banks is home to great restaurants of all stripes. Deciding where to go is the hardest part.
Chef and restaurateur Andy Comstock says the abundance of great seafood and produce makes the Outer Banks an interesting culinary scene. Residents enjoy what visitors eventually discover: area restaurants consistently turn out delicious meals, so it’s hard to go wrong. They do such a superb job that they develop a loyal following among visitors and residents alike. The diversity and quality of the restaurants on the Outer Banks is largely due to the number of locally owned establishments. Comstock feels that locally owned restaurants are imperative to maintaining the flavor of the Outer Banks. The creativity that an independent owner is allowed keeps a restaurant unique. Comstock says, “you’re able to put your mark on the place and do something you care about.”
Fresh seafood has always been at the heart of Outer Banks dining. Broiled or fried seafood combination platters are a perennial favorite, and rightly so. The seafood here is so good it doesn’t need to be dressed up. Crisp and delicious fried flounder only needs a side of fresh, tangy cole slaw to be heavenly. Local shrimp are perfection when steamed with a little Old Bay seasoning and served with a side of drawn butter and a frosty pint of beer. Sea scallops are buttery and delicious when broiled and seasoned with a little lemon pepper.
Don’t even think about heading over the bridge home until you’ve had Carolina crabcakes. The best are made with lump blue crab meat and little else. Blue crab is the inspiration for and main ingredient in lots of local specialties like creamy crab dip, she-crab soup and even a savory crab cheesecake.
Soft-shell crabs are an edible wonder. As crabs grow, they must shed their hard shell, leaving them with a soft, thin shell that hardens within a few days. (This can happen up to 25 times during the two or three year life span of a blue crab!) Soft-shells are a local delicacy, typically available from late spring through the summer. They are sautŽed or battered and fried, and you eat the whole crab, legs and all.
To the delight of adventurous palates, some chefs are combining local seafood with flavors from all over the world. Think Asian, Caribbean, French, Mexican, Thai and Mediterranean influences for a unique fusion of flavors. Diners are discovering that yellowfin tuna is great served raw, and isn’t just available as sushi anymore. Seared or charred rare tuna is a popular appetizer, and is being served with a side of wasabi in restaurants all over the Outer Banks. Spicy Thai noodles are prepared with your choice of fresh shrimp or tuna. Mexican favorites get a new twist with dishes like seafood enchiladas, fish tacos and burritos, and shrimp quesadillas. Caribbean flavors like spicy jerk seasoning bring your taste buds to life. For a real taste of the islands, look for the distinctive conch fritters. Even Southern American cuisine seems exotic when a good chef adds his own touch, with dishes like pecan-encrusted grouper served over a bed of creamy cheese grits.
For an authentic taste of the South, you must sample real eastern North Carolina-style barbecue. The tender smoked and pulled pork with that unmistakable vinegar tang will make your mouth water at the mere memory of the taste. Barbecue is usually served with a side of cole slaw and cornbread. Real southerners know that it isn’t a proper barbecue sandwich unless you add slaw and have a glass of sweet tea to wash it down.
On the lighter side, many restaurants have plenty of vegetarian options that are so good even nonvegetarians regularly order them. Fresh green salads are prepared with unique ingredients like nuts, roasted red peppers and goat cheese. You can even order a salad topped with grilled tuna, shrimp, fried oysters, grilled chicken or steak.
Local chef Tony Dean attributes the popularity of “lighter” options to a general shift in health-conscious dining. What the meals may lack in calories, they make up for in flavor. Comstock uses local produce and organic veggies at his own restaurant, especially in the summer when crops in nearby Currituck County are thriving. Some restaurants are so dedicated to freshness that they even grow their own herbs to flavor their creations.
The creativity doesn’t end with the food. Many local restaurants have an atmosphere that coordinates with their cuisine; the dŽcor and artwork make you feel like you’ve discovered an island secret. Each restaurant is unique. Some have a homey atmosphere, with comfortable, lived-in surroundings, while other restaurants take their inspiration from the tropics, with bright color schemes and Caribbean-influenced artwork. Local artists are the source of most of the artwork, and some restaurants have particularly impressive murals and paintings on the walls. Other dining establishments have a decidedly metropolitan feel, with copper-topped bars and sleek furnishings. Many restaurants feature open kitchens, where you can see chefs working fast and efficiently, creating the dishes that arrive at the table looking like works of art.
Upscale restaurants don’t overlook what separates a good restaurant from a great one: wine and dessert. Many restaurants on the Outer Banks have won Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence for their extensive wine lists. Even more have won over the hearts of their patrons with their decadent desserts. Whether created by a trained pastry chef or out of the kitchen of a little local lady, they’re doing something right.
But don’t just save your appetite for evenings out. While dinner has always been a popular meal to eat out after sun-drenched days at the beach, many restaurants also serve excellent lunches, with great food at very reasonable prices. Lunches on sunny days are usually served sans the crowds that can accumulate at dinnertime. Sunday brunches are a local institution. The menus boast a great variety, with everything from crabcake eggs benedict to monstrous sandwiches, and hot coffee to mimosas.
The excellence of Outer Banks restaurants begins with the people behind them. Many traditional local restaurants are family owned and operated, and have been for years. When the next generation takes over, they take pride in the family business, so quality remains high. Newer establishments often feature husbandand- wife teams at the helm, local couples who take pride in serving great food.
Local restaurant owners create a friendly, supportive work environment and employees appreciate their efforts, and in return work hard. Tony Dean says the customer benefits because the staff really aims to please, with both the service and the food, because they understand that’s what keeps people coming back. Diners in locally owned restaurants experience much more than the meal; they get a feel for the Outer Banks lifestyle and a welcome from local people who are happy to serve visitors.
When deciding where to dine on vacation, resist the urge to stick to restaurants that you may know from home and try a local place. Make it a goal to try one new restaurant on every visit to the Outer Banks. You’re bound to find a new favorite, and on your next trip that’ll be one more night that you won’t even consider cooking.
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